Amelia the explorer: Gibb River Road, The Kimberley WA

Windjana Gorge National Park

Just realised I completely missed one of the best parts of our trip so far... and the most highly anticipated- the Gibb River Road. The infamous track/road starts near Derby and heads North East towards Wyndham (and Kunurarra), and is mostly dirt. Closed during the wet season, and tough on vehicles while Chris was relishing it- Tara not so much. But, as it turned out half the retired population (and many school holidaying families) also thought now was a good time to make the famous trek. The place was full of campers, tents and 4WDs (most caravaners wouldn't attempt it) and we were eating dust as we drove mostly sedately along the red rocky roads. We camped in the crowded campground at the Windjana Gorge National Park (a bit dusty, but with great facilities; flushing toilets and hot showers)- right near the gorge and plenty of freshwater crocodiles. Here are some photos of the magnificent gorge... taken during the middle of the day. More crocodiles were out at this time and someone counted 30-40 of them.

Looking for the fossil of the Nautoloid; an ancient crustacean. The area was once (about 300 million years ago) a limestone barrier reef which stretched for many kilometres, through from Windjana Gorge to Tunnel Creek and Geikie Gorge. The gorge was carved by the Lennard River and is between 30-100 metres tall and about 100 metres wide in parts. In the wet season it would be very difficult to get into, which is I guess why so many people are visiting now.

Stay right where you are!

Taking it easy in the water

The next day the crocodiles looked more like this...

a cute baby croc

A not so cute larger version

For more info on the gorge and surrounding area... http://www.derbytourism.com.au/pages/windjana-gorge/

Tunnel Creek

This was an absolute highlight (perhaps the best thing we've done on this trip!)- a brilliant 750 metre walk underground following a join in the limestone within the same Napier Range as Windjana Gorge. It was only a short trek, but the road was hideous- just a warning if you are to attempt it. Definitely need to find a chiropractor soon!

The contrasts in colours are astounding.

But back to the tunnel walk, we needed strong shoes, which didn't mind getting wet (the water was up above Tara's knees for awhile) and a good torch. Apparently there are many bats within the cave, but we didn't see any, just a few odd sounds and a couple of pairs of eyes visible through the gloom- freshwater crocodiles once again. The bottom of the cave was a bit silty/sludgy and rocky, and you probably wouldn't go in if you could actually see the water but it was so much fun. There are stalactites and lovely little waterfalls throughout the cave. The river meanders around and in the middle of the walk it opens up into a beautiful green gorge. Then you enter the depths again and this time it's longer in the dark before the cave opens up to a larger gorge and swimming hole.

One of Western Australia's oldest cave systems it's also famous as a hideout used in the late 1800's by an Aboriginal leader named Jandamarra, who was wanted for the murder of his colleague- a policeman. He is alledged to have hidden in this cave structure and in Windjana Gorge for three years- and once you see the area you'll understand how this was completely possible. He was killed outside the caves entrance in 1897.

Hopefully my photos will do the area justice- otherwise check out the link below...

http://www.derbytourism.com.au/pages/tunnel-creek/

Amelia making sure her skirt didn't get wet- although Daddy mostly carried her.

At times we had no idea which way to go- there's obviously no marked trail or path and everyone simply guesses what will work for them, some choosing a rocky way and others a wetter route. Some people stopped at the midway point but we had to keep going. (Some were unprepared- in flimsy footwear, while others were actually wearing motorcycle boots! Not sure how those gents got on.) It was the most incredible walk, or "fantacular" as Amelia would say. Chris is still raving about it to everyone we meet weeks on.